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PostPosted: Fri Feb 12, 2016 8:41 am 
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Location: in a garage full of junk
yay scirocco! I want to see it at washington :coolbeer:


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 01, 2016 10:41 pm 
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Planning, planning, planning....

Trying to figure out if I want the 02M (6-speed) or the 02J (5-speed) with cable shift for the Scirocco.

I came across this really, really, really cool site that I can put in all the gear ratios, tire size, etc. and watch it go through the gears using the auto-shift button.

http://www.blocklayer.com/rpm-geareng.aspx" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I haven't tried the numbers for the 02J or 02M on the site yet. That will take some time as I need to determine what I have first.

I figure that if my Golf can get into 6th gear at Okemo (just holding speed, not accelerating), the Scirocco being lighter and much smaller diameter wheels will be hitting 6th as a usable gear.

Of course, what is it like at all the other speeds and gears..... what about Burke (tight hill) vs. Ascutney (fast)?

The 02M is much stronger, but since the car is so light, I do not think I need to worry about breaking the 02J. So, strength is not a reason to go with the 6-speed.

Then, there is the weight difference. I think it is 100# (02J) vs. 112# (02M); assuming the internet is correct. Will have to weight both of them when I get a chance. Of course, the 02J doesn't have an LSD, but it will give me the general idea.

Of course... bringing in the cost factor. I have the 02M freshly rebuilt and ready to use. I have the cables for both. Might go with aftermarket upright shifter.... we will see.

Both transmission will either require some fabrication to be able to use the normal MK4 (like my Golf) engine mounts OR order pre-made 02M or 02J to MK1 (Scirocco) mounts. Since this will be always raced, I want something that will hold up. I like the fabrication angle as MK4 parts are easy to come by.

Planning, planning, planning.

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 10, 2016 5:15 pm 
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Location: Morrisville
More gears to choose from would be better? I would just try the O2M if it's ready to go for the first season.


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PostPosted: Sun May 22, 2016 10:37 pm 
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Not too much of an update.

First hillclimb of the year (Ascutney #1 / 2016) has come and gone; weather was great, good to see old and new faces, etc.

I believe this is a personal best (2:56.10... so close to 2:55). Happy with 3rd overall.

[youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1B3uNDhQzlM[/youtube]

Next weekend... SLMP track event with the WRX.

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PostPosted: Fri May 27, 2016 8:24 am 
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Favorite photo from the weekend....

Credit: Sam Moultroup

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PostPosted: Mon May 30, 2016 10:25 am 
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I did one improvement for the 2016 season.... installed set screw to control the idle.

Oh... and get a new set of Toyo R888 (235/40-17)... after the Ascutney hillclimb. (could have used them for Ascutney)

The car did not always idle when cold and I wanted the engine to run faster after a run (faster than 700 +/- RPMs) to pump coolant through the engine. Historically, I used a split washer to control the idle by putting it between the static throttle body stop and the rotating part of the throttle. I used the split washer because it offered different throttle positions based on its sloped shape.

Anyway... enough of dealing with the throttle, I installed a set screw to address the issue.

One thing I would have done differently if I did it again, I would have done it from the backside so that I could adjust the idle while the engine was running. As installed now, I have to turn off the engine and swing the throttle open to get to the set screw. Live an learn.

Photos of this simple adjustment.

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 14, 2016 6:23 am 
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Good times at the Okemo #1 hillclimb in Ludlow, VT. Strange weather (cold, wet, sometimes sunny.... unlike the usual 90 degrees and all sun).

The car did quite well at the event... 1st in class (Saturday, I was the only one in my class, so don't get too excited), 7th overall at 2:29.07 (nice!) and second fastest in the straight (111 mph... darn Super Chicken got me at 113 mph).

Doing some things to the car prior to Okemo #2 in a few weeks. Swapping out the hot side of the turbo for a small one and safety wiring all the hot side bolts as they backed out in prior years (seem okay this year, but it has been cooler). Naturally a retune is in order at VEMS.us.

Video from this past weekend posted on Vimeo as Youtube's quality hasn't been there for me. Make sure to watch in 1080HD. Enjoy.

http://vimeo.com/170451454 <--Video link!

Steve

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 08, 2016 8:17 pm 
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Half a summer worth of updates....

Golf is normally near 118 mph in the straight at Okemo, but I was running at 111 mph for some reason. It was slower. It was not smoking.

Anyway. After checking things out at Kales Custom, I was off a bit with the compression on two of the cylinders.

My first thought is "hole in the piston" but the car was not smoking at all.

Took the engine apart. While in it, inspected the clutch/flywheel.... looked great!

Pistons, engine block, and head looked good to me (untrained eye).

Hmmmmmm......

Disassembled.
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Well, not related to the compression issue, I got to add something else to my carnage wall of shame... a broken main bearing cap. AND... there was nothing wrong with the bearing. Good thing I had the engine apart.

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Being new to the whole "broken main bearing cap" club, I thought bringing a bearing cap from another engine the machine shop could make it work. Well, YES and NO. They would have to line bore the caps so they worked with the crank; they send out for line boring; and the "big V-8" guy didn't have one that small.

So.... I brought him a new block. Problem solved!

Not.

I get a call from the machine shop (RPM in Georgia, VT) and they tell me they can't put the pistons in the cylinders. They don't fit. They are too big? I didn't recall boring anything.

I also did not recall what I had for breakfast.

Turns out I did .5mm oversize on the pistons at one point as the block was dorked up from one of the previous engines going the way of the Doo-Doo Bird.

Bored and cleaned block with new piston rings (all gapped).

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So... the source of the compression issue was actually the seats for the valves. I guess running a bit of boost for 3 years isn't good for longevity of those internal engine parts.

Cleaned up valve seats and new valve seals (all 20)..... figured we were in there anyway.

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Everything is back in my garage.... a project for tomorrow as I have the day off.

Meanwhile, while summer is slowly drawing closer to winter, the New England Hillclimb Association (NEHA) hillclimb events continue. Well, I just have to drive, ya know.

Enter the world's fastest red, automatic, Daewoo Lanos with white stickers. It needs all those qualifiers to remove the other 7 Daewoos from the population. I drove it at Okemo #2 and Burke #1. Photo of the World Famous Non-Factory Sponsored Superduper Intergalactic Racing Team Daewoo Lanos (at Okemo) with Julie (little woman) in the 2009 Subaru WRX (my car!!!!) in back of me.

I had lots of time to think in the straights.

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In other news... went to wedding with a bunch of local VW club people (Dubsnorth). Had a great time. No one told me about the open bar.

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Ascutney #2 is next weekend (favorite hill). I don't think the Golf will be ready with putting everything together, breaking it in, and dyno tuning it. Back to driving the Daewoo.

Then.... October brings about the Mt. Philo hillclimb. Another great event, though, sadly, the last event of the year.

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Nothing too exciting.... but I'm still alive.

Steve

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 03, 2016 10:57 pm 
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And the other half of summer.....

Spending time rebuilding an engine with no corners cut... well, one, but that was by accident. I did pay for it.

I had one of these for my Rabbit, but never for the 02J (5-speed) or 02M (6-speed).... that usually involved vice grips and screwdrivers. Enter the proper flywheel holder (not recommended for the crankshaft bolt). Easy to use and very effective.

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The new block code is "Grrrr".... no idea what it means, but it seems fitting.

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Nothing too exciting from the engine build point of view. Bored the block to accept the .5mm oversized piston (82.5mm vs the standard 82mm), new valve seals, new rings (naturally), and everything was cleaned and machined by http://www.rpmenginesvt.com (Georgia, VT)

Add on the transmission... my new favorite (and easy) way to install the transmission.... unless you have to bolt on the oil pan afterwards (where rotating the engine/trans as a single unit is a royal PITA).

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Something new that I am trying... and it led to another series of challenges... is the intake manifold Phenolic spacer. Now, what does Phenolic mean? It is a thermal do-hickey that prevents heat from the engine block from transmitting to the intake manifold. Reduce heat in the intake manifold means more power (there is a reason that we have FMICs!)..... or, it is really good marketing.

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One thing I noticed when taking apart the engine is that the fuel injectors were very loose in the injector cups. It was like throwing a hot dog down a hallway.

So, new injector cups were in order along with new rubber o-rings on the injectors.

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The kit from 034Motorsports also included longer intake manifold bolts and locking nuts. Shorter stock bolts vs. longer 034 bolts pictured.

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All assembled and pretty. While I was there, I had to oversize and tap the holes that held the fuel rail and throttle cable holder (another do-hickey) as the 7mm holes in the aluminum intake were less than threaded.

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Showing the thickness of the spacer. At least 300 more wHP, I figure. Throw in some stickers and that is 305 wHP more! Mother of God! (Super trooper reference)

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Sad part, the internet must have an end.... search for "Mother of God" and it just starts repeating on Google.

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Anyway, back at the ranch....

New challenge with the spacer is that the bracket that holds the intake manifold in place, something that I have not used for years, but figured the additional leverage from the extended mounting point with the spacer would warrant it, does not line up anymore. English teacher would have shot me for that terribly assembled sentence. Oh well.

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Also, at Ascutney #1 (2016), I dumped a bit of oil on my skid plate because the plastic oil dipstick was dislodged (or was never correct pushing into place). I haven't used the stock dipstick holder down do-hickey thing-ah-mabob for years. Something else I was going to solve while putting the engine back together.

Image of the stock holder-downer thingy. It is quite long as it holds various electronic bits, emissions VTAMs, blacks tubes, and other various things that I do not need. VTAM is an old IBM term for those of you playing the home game. I mounted the stock brace (that I had to grab from a junk car recently as I discarded mine years ago) to give me some ideas of what I could do. The right most bolt is currently in service holding the Kales Custom oil separator. I could use the stock bracket and the oil separator with the stock bolt, but all I needed was something simple to hold down a flimsy plastic tube. Enter Mr. Hacksaw and Mrs. Dremel.

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Longer bolt installed with aluminum spacer. I had to flatten out the brace a bit to extended it and then bend the end so that the bolt hole would align with the hole on the intake.

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Cut down the bracket for the dip stick....

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Now the trials and tribulations of cutting one corner (by accident). When rebuilding this engine, I used all new bolts (paying close attention to the TTY bolts). But.... I did not replace the front main seal aluminum plate. I did replace the seal, naturally, but generally, there is no reason to replace the plate.

Unless the bolt holes were stripped by whomever owned the engine previously.

No problem... one size up (7mm to 8mm) on the bolts.

Except, there just had to be a problem. The chuck on the drill would not clear the oil pan. I already applied the sealant to the block and pan and installed the other 18 pan bolts and torqued the three transmission to oil pan bolts. Didn't want to take it apart for the two holes that were stripped on the front main seal plate.

So, I needed to get a longer 17/64" drill bit (what is needed for a 8mm tap) or an extension for the drill. That's what she said!

I could not find a longer drill bit (it is Vermont, ya know), but I found a 12" extension that used two hex set screws to hold in the 1/4 drill bit.

Except mine is 17/64". Doh!

The short version, and three drill bits later, I had to brill a hole in the base of my drill press so that the 12" rod would be low enough to be able to drill into it, drill for a long time with cheap drill bits in hardened steel, and finally get the bit to work with the extension.

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Drilling one of the two holes....
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Worked out nicely with the tap as the tap handle that came with the kit did not hold onto the tap very well.

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Two 8mm non-TTY bolts holding the oil pan in place much better than the 7mm TTY bolts with threadless holes.

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Pretty exhaust side of the engine with new locking nuts. I really like the oblong nuts better than the split locking nuts.

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100% together (minus turbo).

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