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PostPosted: Wed Sep 16, 2015 8:54 pm 
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Needs nothing. Get in and race.

I am currently racing the car this season with two events left (Sep 19-20 Ascutney hillclimb and Oct 17-18 Philo hillclimb... both located in Vermont). This gives two opportunities for serious buyers to get a ride in the car at speed. Yes! You can purchase the car anytime (even before these events). Reason for selling… I have my eye on an AWD car.

Located near Burlington, Vermont. $9,500 obo.

Need more pictures? Just ask. I would suggest looking through the project post below to see what has been done to the car.... keep in mind that it went through many phases over the years.

Steve

HISTORY

I purchased the car in 2005 as a minor roll over (did not break sunroof glass, but we did have to push up the roof a bit on passenger side) and it saw constant improvements over the years. In May 2010, someone drove it into a tree (22 mph was the estimate based on the dash freeze) where I had to replace the hood, fenders, engine, transmission, radiator, skid plate, control arm, struts, steering rack, subframe, etc. and bend the unibody horns back into place. Was back racing in May 2011.

Build thread over the years… http://www.motorgeek.com/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=23960

SAFETY
  • Full cage that is legal for all New England Hillclimb Series (NEHA) hillclimbs in Vermont and the Mt. Washington Hillclimb; I am sure it is legal for many other race sanctioning bodies, but I do not have firsthand knowledge of other organization’s rules. .095 x 1.75 for most of tubing; smaller stuff is 1.50”
  • Window net
  • FIA race seats on Sparco sliders (both sides)
  • New FIA 6-point harnesses (both sides; new in 2015 and good for 5 years)
  • Two 2.5# ABC fire extinguishers
  • Battery cut-off switch (not an ignition kill switch)


ENGINE
  • 300whp at 22 psi (?) boost using 110 octane leaded race fuel (VP C12); I used to run 353wHP, but it was too much wheel spin for the rough hillclimb roads. There is a lot more power available with this setup, but I can only use what power I can put to the ground at the race.
  • Drive by cable (instead of wire) throttle body
  • 1.8T
  • APR headbolts
  • Gates Racing timing belt (April 2013)
  • Metal water pump
  • Wiseco Pistons
  • Scat Connecting rods
  • Ferrea solid exhaust valves (not the sodium style prone to failure), new valve sleeves, new seals, new lifters, etc. in 2013; head is otherwise stock.
  • Custom header to 3” exhaust; optional brand new cat to install via v-band clamp if you want use a cat
  • Tial GTX2863R turbo with Tial 42 or 44mm external waste gate (I forget the size)
  • ATP front mounted intercooler (FMIC)
  • Tial BOV
  • Upgraded in tank fuel pump (might be Bosch 044, but I forget)
  • 57# injectors at 3 bar
  • N75 performance electronic boost control valve
  • 4 bar fuel pressure regulator (FPR)
  • 034EFI IIc with 4 bar MAP sensor engine management system; completely tunable
  • High Output DIS Coil with Built-in Driver / Separate coilpacks (can control/tune then via 034EFI)
  • Steel tubing fuel lines front to back
  • Firewall heat shield
  • Plumbed with Stage 2 Snow Performance water/meth injection system (brain, pump, tank, low level light, two nozzles 100cc and 175cc, etc…. everything), but I am using it for radiator water sprayer instead. You have options. Just move the nozzles to the existing bungs (one after FMIC and one on the throttle body) and plug in the brain to run the water/meth.
  • Extra valve cover vent
  • Large Mishimoto aluminum radiator…. Works great! (2014)
  • Brand new radiator fans (2014)
  • 034 “race” engine mounts
  • ECS Tuning coolant “Y” pipe (to replace easy to break plastic pipe)

TRANSMISSION
  • Rebuilt 02M 6-speed with steel shift forks (USP Motorsports) with new WaveTrac LSD (2015)
  • Billet Aluminum shifter bushings for the cable ends (2015)
  • Billet Aluminum shifter bracket bushings (2015)
  • DriveShaftShop 475HP Axles
  • Spec 2+ clutch with pressure plate
  • Lightened Flywheel 210mm
  • 034 EFI Motorsports Billet Aluminum dogbone

SUSPENSION
  • Custom camber plates reinforcement with stress bar
  • Cusco adjustable camber plates (2014)
  • Shine coilovers sleeves with shine 600# front springs and 400# rears; only lowered a little. Springs are 2.5”. Note on the spring rates…. I need to find a receipt to verify that the numbers provided are correct; going by memory. It was the Shine Racing spring rates recommended for my car at the time.
  • Fronts has helper spring
  • Bilstein Sport struts (new 2014)
  • Bilstein Sport shocks (new 2010)
  • 235-17-40 Toyo R888 tires (new May 2015) mounted on 17x8 aftermarket rims
  • Wheel studs with 19mm nuts

BRAKES
  • Zimmerman stock size vented rotors
  • Hawk Blue 9012 front and rears are Hawk HP Plus (2016)
  • Stainless steel brake lines for front and rear
  • RBF600 brake fluid

GENERAL
  • Cusco roll cage sun visor set
  • Removed secondary air pump system; used 034EFI pretty block off plate on head
  • Serious aluminum skid plate that is further reinforced with tubing
  • Full size battery located in the rear of car
  • Body tie-downs front and rear
  • Has all the glass, power windows, locks, and stereo… yep, could save a lot of weight if I ever got around to removing it.
  • Everything electrical works…. Wipers (though I removed the rear wiper arm so I didn’t keep running the wiper over a dry window during a race), windows, door locks, horn, lights, directionals, etc.
  • Passenger exterior door handles are sometime finicky
  • There are no airbags or DOT seatbelts in the car. I have had it registered/insured driving it on the road, but it isn’t exactly “road legal” with the airbag and engine (due to engine mang. system) lights on the dash.
  • Gauges: Fuel pressure, boost, oil pressure, A/F, and EGT.
  • 1” low oil pressure warning light on dash
  • Hoodpins

EXTRAS
  • 02M 6-speed transmission (soon to be rebuilt) with Pelioquin LSD (yep, a complete transmission ready to go!). Just need to move the LSD to the replacement transmission.
  • Brand new in box DriveShaftShop 475HP axles (yep, a complete extra set!)
  • Non-sunroof roof (same color as car)… car had sunroof wherein we welded in sheet metal and bodo’ed over the seams to smooth it out. I picked up new roof to replace the wavy original, but decided I liked the American flag on the roof. Don’t like the flag (or the welded in sunroof), here is a complete non-sunroof replacement
  • Two complete doors (same color as car)…. I forget which ones.
  • Two rims that nearly match what is currently on car (set on car were silver and powered coated in an attempt to match these two rims)
  • Lots of extra misc parts (control arms, struts, etc.) that I will include. Unsure exactly what I have, so consider it a bonus that does not affect the selling price whether the items are included or not.

PICTURES

Video from August 2015 at Okemo hillclimb that includes in-car, side of car, and current photos:


The car
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Engine
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Camber plates
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Fuel lines
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Interior (older picture… gauges are now in the center above the radio)
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 27, 2015 10:31 pm 
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Some additional photos from last week.

If you have questions, do not hesitate to ask. My asking price is a good starting place for discussion.

I will post up video of the last hillclimb... I did a personal best and got 7th overall out of 43 drivers.

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 22, 2015 5:23 am 
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Updated price to reflect what I think is a more accurate market value.

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 02, 2015 6:46 am 
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Easiest way to get into racing is to purchase a car that is 100% prepared and is proven to be very competitive.

Steve

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 29, 2015 3:36 pm 
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Washed the outside and cleaned the inside... all ready for winter.

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