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 Post subject: Tranny stuff
PostPosted: Thu Dec 09, 2004 8:14 pm 
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Joined: Tue Sep 14, 2004 2:50 pm
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Location: montpeler vt , cabot vt
This is for most 2Y trannys

The first pic...
Red circle = side 17mm drain/fill plug
yellow circle = speedo hole
Red square = '020' stamp
White circle = vent tube
Blue circle = timing check hole

In second pic....
Red circle = same as above
Red square = same as above
Double red circles = bottom 17mm drain plug
Yellow square = trans code and mfg date
Green circle = reverse bolt

Depending on the date of the trans, the filling procedure can be slightly different, but both start by draining the fluid out of the double-red circle 17mm plug.
Once drained, stick the plug back in, and remove the red circle side 17mm plug, on your passenger side (I'm so used to saying on the drivers side), and the fluid is added through there.
Depending on the numbers in the yellow square, the fill procedure changes.
For trans made after Sept 8, 1987 (shown as trans as 08097), then you add fluid to the trans until it runs out of the red circled side 17mm hole. Proper fluid (2.0L) is when the fluid level in the trans is even and level with the bottom of that drain hole.
For trans made before Sept 8, 1987, you do the same as above, adding fluid until it starts to run out of the side 17mm hole, then you plug that hole back up, and add 0.5L more fluid into the trans via the speedo hole in the yellow circle.
That mfg date is when VW moved the red circled hole up on the side of the case by 7mm.


VR6 (02A) Shift Box Bushing Replacement.
The Shift Box is located inside the car under the shift boot. Several bushings inside the shift box may need replacing if your car is more than 8yrs old or has more than 125K miles. My 95 Passat wouldn’t easily engage first gear because of a missing plastic cuplet that fits on a ball stud at bottom passengers side of metal shift cage. If the cuplet is worn or missing, it will be very difficult to engage first gear and you’ll hear a metallic clanking sound when moving the shift lever from side to side. No matter how hard you try, the situation can not be corrected by making adjustments to either cable end on top of tranny.
Parts replaced:
1. 357 711 590 B, Bushing, Clear hat-shaped located at front of shift cage
2. 357 711 590 C, Bushing, Gray hat-shaped located at rear of shift cage
3. 357 711 164, Cuplet, Clear spherical located on ball stud at bottom of shift cage
4. 357 711 234 A, Hex Bolt, stainless steel located below shift weight (top of tranny)
All parts except the hex bolt are located inside the shift box. To replace both bushings and the cuplet, the long pivot pin (running front to rear) must be removed. Remove the 13mm retaining bolt first. Next, the circlip on drivers side of the shift cage gets removed. Removal of this circlip allows the white plastic “cross” (which shift shaft runs through) to be removed from the shift cage.
Once the shift cage is out, both bushings were greased and replaced. The small cuplet needs to have the “eye” opened up some (use a flat blade screwdriver) before it would fit over the ball stud.
While the shift cage was out, I removed the special cotter pin at the bottom of shift shaft that retains the front/rear shift cable. Use a jeweler’s screwdriver through one eye of the cotter pin (and your thumb on the other side) so you don’t lose the cotter pin when removing it. Since no replacement for the cable end bushing was available, I used about 3-4 inches of Teflon tape wrapped around the pin at the bottom of shift shaft to compensate for slop in the bushing…this may be a “getto” fix, but it beats replacing a shift cable.
Place the front/rear cable end back onto the shift shaft pin, then carefully push the cotter pin back through the hole in the shift shaft pin. Next, replace the circlip after installing the plastic “cross” onto the shift cage. Now lower the shift cage so that the new bushings align with the holes in the shift box and the plastic covered ball stud aligns with the side/side relay lever. Slide the pivot pin in from the front of shift box (use a flat blade screwdriver to help the pivot pin over the flange in the body sheet metal….or use a Dremel tool to grind away the flange). Replace the 13mm bolt that retains the pivot pin.
The hex bolt runs through the shift weight on top of transmission. The front/rear shift cable also attaches to this hex bolt. Replacement should be straightforward.
The above parts (#1-3) were about $4 from the dealer; however, if you buy a short shifter these parts (minus the cuplet) are usually included. The hex bolt (#4) was about $13…not bad for a custom machined factory part.
Bushing replacement should take about 2-3 hours

BIG TIP for older 5speeds
Most people who've filled a VW tranny more than a few times have come to the conclusion that it's easier to refill through the speedo cable access (in our case it's a sensor, not a cable) and just dump the correct amount in. but it is easier to over fill this way.

You can then double-check the level at the fill hole later. But beware, some older trannies *had* to be overfilled, the fill hole was too low! (This is pretty well documented and in fact, VWoA's bulletins on it suggested the above procedure). If you didn't "overfill" these, 5th gear would eventually become quite unhappy about it.

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